Cotton Cotton grows in warm climates and most of the world’s cotton is grown in the U.S., Uzbekistan, the People’s Republic of China and India. • Sally Fox, a pioneer in growing biodynamic crops and re-introducing naturally colored cottons to the modern market, runs a small online shop with products, including fabrics. In the U.S. the average is approximately 1 ½ bale of raw cotton per acre and 1,070 pounds of seed. “It’s the way that everybody used to farm, our grandparents and all, it’s a way of life that we want to continue with.” –Darlene Vogler, organic cotton farmer. Gossypium hirsutum, or upland cotton, is relatively easy to grow with high yields per acre, and it accounts for about 95% of the cotton grown around the world today. Their story helps us understand where our cotton comes from, its long and sometimes contentious history in the United States, the lives of farmers, how the global marketplace works, and the state of organic cotton farming today. When they’re ready for harvest, conventional farmers spray their crops with a chemical defoliant that kills the abundant leaves and reveals the cotton pods for picking. I confess I took cotton for granted and didn’t think much about its origins until I participated in 1 Year, 1 Outfit and tried to make a garment from local, sustainable fabrics. The cotton plant is grown from seeds and we get fabric from its flower. In the middle of western Texas is the largest contiguous cotton growing area in the world. From 2011 to 2014 Texas suffered varying levels of drought, and the Co-op members struggled to meet demands for their crop. If all goes well, the seeds get in the ground while it’s warm and moist enough to give them a good start. We have something of a soft spot for pima cotton, but we understand that this high-quality fiber remains a mystery to many. • Organic cotton jersey from Alabama Chanin. Before the day of manmade materials, there were little other choices when it came down to making any of these items. A U.S. bale weighs around 500 pounds. Plus we'll keep you up-to-date with the latest news. By 1815 cotton was America’s most valuable export, and by 1840 it was worth more than all other exports combined. The author sincerely thanks Kelly Pepper at TOCMC for all his help and the use of photos, and farmers Darlene and Jerry Vogler, as well as Jimmy Wedel, for kindly agreeing to be interviewed. The cotton plant is grown from seeds and we get fabric from its flower. The word cotton comes from the Arabic word “quton.” The earliest production of cotton was in India, where the material dates back to the fifth millennium B.C. 2015 was a good year for cotton, bringing in the Co-op’s biggest crop ever and leaving them with more bales than buyers. • Sew Eco-Logical is mainly a wholesale business, but they have some smaller cuts of US organic fabric available on Etsy. Does linen shrink when washed Of course, linen shrinks when... How to Wash Down Pillows Down is the most delicate... Purpose of Box Spring Purpose of box spring is to;... How to wash Rayon? There are many terms used today... How to Make a Bed Professionally  How to Make a Bed Professionally ... What is Jacquard Fabric? In spite of the challenges, the Voglers continue to press forward. Cotton candy may come out purple when mixed. The origins of cotton are somewhat hazy, but it’s clear that there are varieties native to India, Africa, and the Americas. Buying only fabric I could trace to the source (and feel good about) seemed restrictive at first, but I found these limitations allowed me to be more creative, and what I learned and made was so much more satisfying than any off-the-shelf choice. Today, the high-quality cotton that is used for premium fabrics is still done this way, since mechanized harvesting can be rough and cause damage to the lint and therefore produces a rougher, courser texture. If you asked where does cotton come from a hundred years ago, the answer would be very different than it is today. Gossypium barbadense, which originated in South America, is harder to grow but produces the fine, soft, long-staple fibers we call Pima and Egyptian cotton. Cotton candy machines were notoriously unreliable until Gold Medal's invention of a sprung base in 1949—since then, they have manufactured nearly all commercial cotton candy machines and much of the cotton candy in the US. “That’s kind of a drawn-out period in there from mid-June to mid-September that we fight the weeds.” While conventional farms spray their fields with herbicides, the organic farmers take the weeds out mechanically. Eventually the coiled fibers straighten out as the seeds ripen, popping the boll open, and the fibers dry in the sun and air. More than 100 countries are participating in cotton production but the origin of cotton is in India and Pakistan. Cotton was first cultivated in Indus Delta. “The most rewarding aspect—for me at least—has been knowing where our cotton has gone and the people that are using it,” says Darlene. Sources of American-grown, organic cotton fabrics for sewists (including those made with cotton grown by TOCMC members): • Organic Cotton Plus offers a good selection of knits and wovens. Stubbornness has helped to get them through. However, once the plants get bigger, or if the weather conditions don’t permit a cultivator to get in the field within a few days of a rain, they still rely on a crew of people with hoes to take out weeds that could out-compete the cotton.

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